The Indie Brand's Daring Comeback at Milan Fashion Week
In a bold move, an indie fashion brand is making waves by returning to the runway during Milan Men's Fashion Week. But is this a risky strategy in today's turbulent fashion industry?
Amidst a retail crisis and a decline in consumer spending, indie labels and emerging talents are facing an uphill battle to establish themselves. Many are opting for strategic cost-cutting measures, from optimizing productions to skipping presentations altogether. However, Lessico Familiare, an Italian indie brand, is taking a leap of faith.
Known for its sustainable ethos and quirky aesthetic, Lessico Familiare has always operated on the fringes of the fashion world. Now, after seasons of unconventional events, the brand is returning to a traditional format with a runway show titled 'New Age' on Jan. 17 at Istituto Marangoni's new campus, Palazzo Turati.
The show's title is a multi-layered reference. It signifies a new chapter for the brand, which has received grants from Camera Moda Fashion Trust and endorsements from Dover Street Market Paris. But it also pays homage to a pop icon: Madonna.
'I saw a meme that read: "I'm chasing what Madonna was feeling in that moment," referring to the "Ray of Light" era,' said Riccardo Scaburri, co-founder of Lessico Familiare.
Scaburri explains that the title reflects the metropolitan spiritualism of the late '90s and early 2000s, as embodied by Madonna's iconic album. It also evokes the New Age movement of the '70s, the escapism of that era, and the stereotypical spirituality of today. The collection aims to strike a balance between nostalgia and a forward-looking perspective.
'We've always been melancholic and have only looked to the past. With this collection, we tried to balance nostalgia [and ask]: "Yes, but now?"'
The brand is shifting from lengthy presentations to a more concise format. The founders want to capture a fleeting moment, a flash of energy that a fashion show can provide.
The choice of venue is significant. Istituto Marangoni's new campus symbolizes the education of designers and creatives, and its courtyard, open to the street, represents the birthplace of revolutions.
The event will embody the brand's signature style, with a hint of rebelliousness. Scaburri describes their approach as a 'guerrilla show,' simple and unpretentious.
Lessico Familiare's past presentations have been characterized by their unconventional nature. From tongue-in-cheek dinners to fancy breakfasts, the brand has always surprised its audience. Their debut at Milan Fashion Week in June 2022 featured a bridal-inspired collection paraded in the streets, followed by the coed 'Cocktail' range unveiled at Fondazione Sozzani.
The upcoming show will continue this tradition, featuring friends and muses of the founders instead of models. The collection will blend pop culture references with Lessico Familiare's unique whimsical style.
Riccardo Scaburri hints at diverse inspirations, from Marta Marzotto's iconic caftan looks to a reimagined 'Orlando' with a Stanley Cup. These references are filtered through the brand's Millennial lens, shaped by glossy magazines, TV series, and 20th-century literature.
While staying true to their signature froufrou style, the designers will explore slimmer silhouettes and a refined upcycling approach. The collection will feature lightweight knitwear, raw-edge brocades, stiff satin, dark sequins, and 3D textural elements, showcasing the brand's evolution.
Lessico Familiare's name, meaning 'familiar lexicon' in English, reflects their commitment to a recognizable yet evolving style. They refuse to conform to industry trends, growing organically and staying true to their vision.
The brand's journey began in 2020 when the founders, after meeting at NABA fashion, art, and design school, decided to upcycle domestic items like curtains, mats, and discarded clothes. This domestic project, rather than a traditional fashion brand, has evolved without adhering to seasonal trends, embracing experimental initiatives instead.
Initially, their pieces were primarily available on their e-commerce platform due to their artisanal, handmade production. However, the brand's exposure at Dover Street Market in Paris and collaborations with Japanese retailers have expanded their distribution.
The event at Dover Street Market was a turning point, giving the brand a global yet intimate energy. Collaborating with showroom Tora Tora and working with Japan has led to unique creations for various stores.
With funding from the Camera Moda Fashion Trust grant, Lessico Familiare aims to reach a wider audience through physical events. They believe in the power of conversation and human connection over digital platforms.
When asked about challenges, Scaburri highlights pragmatic concerns like rent and bills. Yet, he values the freedom to pursue their passions without external pressures.
'We don't have an ultimate goal. We navigate without objectives, knowing what we don't want. We achieve the best goals spontaneously.'
This philosophy led to a collaboration with director Carolina Cavalli, creating costumes for the movie 'The Kidnapping of Arabella,' which won the best actress award at the Venice Film Festival.
Lessico Familiare's journey is a testament to the power of staying true to one's vision, even in challenging times. Their return to Milan Fashion Week is not just a fashion statement but a celebration of individuality and creativity.
